The lacy network of centuries old mangrove forest gave way reluctantly through a huge concrete arch. In bold letters the Mayan inscription proclaimed SIAN KAAN –Where the Sky is Born. Our guide instructed us+ADs You are entering the world of the gods. Your spirit is welcome but leave your outer form behind. This is a place of magic. I peered anxiously through the jungle barrier that pressed close to our car for sight of one of the many animals native to this place. I would dearly love to see a monkey swinging from limb to limb or a jaguar or puma — all of whom were native to the area. Yellow and red orchids swung invitingly between the above ground root system of the ancient mangroves. The longing call of lone birds passed news of our arrival along lines of communication no eyes could see. Two hours south of Cancun, Mexico is a thin peninsula that begins at the ruins of Tulum and runs between the Caribbean on one side and vast lagoons on the other for 100 kms. to Punta Allen and Ascension Bay. Sian Kaan begins on the peninsula and extends for 1.3 million acres south along the coast into Belize. It was designated a biosphere reserve by the Mexican government in 1986. The Maya have considered it sacred since at least the Fifth Century A.D. Besides the biosphere reserve, resorts on the strip of beach between Tulum and the north entrance of the reserve offer a wide range of activities to visitors. Theres fishing, diving, and snorkeling in the nearby reef, visits to the ruins at Tulum and Coba, a couple of dozen cenotes — deep natural pools to swim or dive in, and of course the 100 Km. stretch of pristine beaches. Its also the most convenient place to stay if youre visiting the reserve.
That night at my hotel I met a mother and daughter whod come from Italy to explore the biosphere and we decided to make the journey together to the Sian Kaan Reserve the next morning. Id rented a car as Id been advised that that was the best way to explore the area. One can also be dropped off within the reserve by boat but unless you have a particular destination within the reserve, its better to have your own vehicle. There are no buses+ACE Its only 19 Km. from the reserve entrance to Boca Paila. Piece of cake, right? Wrong. Not much more than a dirt path scraped out of the limestone base that makes up the Yucatan peninsula, the road was a mass of giant potholes that seemed determined to capture us and drag our poor small vehicle down into the underworld to meet the Mayan gods. The underworld is a place of great fascination to the ancient Maya, where most of the heroic action of both the gods and man occurs. However, we were a happy group and joked about our circumstances easily, especially considering that the lush green jungle we were traveling through, held the promise of mysterious revelations. We werent exactly suffering, just becoming a little seasick as our vehicle swayed back and forth over the rocks. The reserve emcompasses a variety of wetlands: seasonally flooded forest, savannas, mangroves, freshwater canals, lagoons, bays, cenotes, and coral reefs. These varied environments support over 1200 species of plants and 345 species of birds. Its location on the north-south migratory bird route makes it strategically important as a rest stop. Over one million birds overwinter in the reserve.
A Biosphere reserve is a new concept of protected areas+ADs in which the goals of reserving the flora, fauna, and ecosystems are integrated with the needs of the local inhabitants. An aim is to keep the people on the land, to support themselves in agriculture, fishing or by working at tourist centers, with a minimal environmental impact. In 1987 The United Nations added Sian Kaan to their list of protected heritage sites. Suddenly we emerged from the green tunnel of jungle to a wide expanse of rolling white sanddunes that were framed by the brilliant turquoise sea. Dotting the dunes were especially tall palms that stood alone or in groups of two or three. It took my breath. This is Two Wells. It is beautiful, is it not? Our guide beamed at us and pulled off the road so we could get out and take a closer look. We tumbled out of the car to stretch our legs. I was hoping to see a Bananaquit feeding upside down on a coconut bloom, but no such luck. There were, however, several kinds of waterbirds, all unfamiliar to me. Amigos de Sian Kaan monitors the reserve and Id been told thayd be happy to send a birder out with us, now I was sorry I hadnt taken them up on the offer. An hour and a half later we came to the Boca Paila Lodge, which has been one of the few habitations inside the reserve. The owner, Rodrigo Gonzalez, greeted us. His family has run the flyfishing lodge for 32 years, fishing for Bone, Permit, and Tarpin. Guests come from all over the world to stay for a week or longer where lodging, food, and all the fish you can catch, form an all-inclusive package. A huge generator unnaturally broke the stillness. There is no electricity within the reserve and all water comes from the deep wells of the cenotes. a onenlanem road. From here, said our guide. You can take a boat up the river. It is not far — one hour only. You can leave the boat and float-swim down with the current and back to this place where we stand. It is good. You will be carried by the current through the mangrove where the water is clear and sweet and you will see all of the life+ADs the orchids and many beautiful flowers, So many birds and fish. Arent there crocodiles? one of our party asked. I think so, but no one sees them. They are not a problem. I remembered a story a friend from Australia had told me about crocodiles being very active in the water but their movements were so fluid that they never disturb the surface of the water, which is what makes them so hard to detect. I shivered at the thought. So far, wed seen a very lot of water, both fresh and salt, and several of the 345 species of birds who make their homes in the safety of the reserve. My desire to see some of the animals reputed to live here was still very much alive. But it was time to leave. Half an hour later, suddenly, in the middle of the bright white road in front of us, a large red fox with a sweeping tail, sauntered slowly across and disappeared into the thick green tangle of mangrove. We all gasped. Our guide said, When an animal allows you to see it, it is a gift from the spirit. A fox is a very special gift+ACE Because fox medicine is the power of being unseen. He can vanish into the undergrowth, melding into the surroundings to observe the activities of others. Fox has the duty of keeping the family together and safe. He is also a talisman for those traveling far afield. It did indeed feel like a gift, and I was sorry that Id not allowed more time to explore the area. Wed not made it to the southern end of the reserve with its two huge bays, Ascension and Espiritu Santo and to the ancient fishing village of Punta Allen, where rough accomodations can be found. (Another access to the reserve is through Punta Allen which can be reached directly via the main coast Hwy 307. ) The prospects beckoned like Rodrigo Gonzaless intricate flies for fishing wed seen at Boca Paila. I was hooked and knew Id be back.